2008 Woodie Awards
Colgate Couture - Global War-Wear
Katie Zarrella
Issue date: 11/29/07 Section: Arts & Features
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How would you describe the world of fashion? Vain, indulgent and frivolous? Possibly. Receptive to current events and global mood? Definitely. Every season, trends emerge: the same color schemes paint multiple collections, similar shapes strut down numerous runways, and you could swear that the quirky Phillip Lim dress featured in Vogue is sitting in the window of the Marc by Marc Soho boutique. Since most designers are more secretive than the CIA when it comes to a new collection, the chances that they hold pre-draping cocktail parties and chat about overarching themes is unlikely at best. So what is responsible for the inevitable parallels between the collections of any given season? Simple: simultaneous existence. In the most literal respect, we all live in the same world. Individual tastes may differ, but it is near impossible to avoid being exposed to the people, places, icons and events that compose today's international mass culture.
The war in Iraq is one of these events that have been abruptly thrust into our lives. To say that it has affected countries, economies, families and individuals across the globe would be a gross understatement. The fashion industry does not exist in a bubble, and thus, it too has been significantly affected by the situation in Iraq. Perhaps the War has sent out some dark energy to which creative souls are especially receptive, or maybe it's because CNN, the Times and every other media outlet obsesses over its every detail, but since Iraq's occupation in 2003, many collections have reflected the international mood set by the War. Fall '07's ready-to-wear was no exception: from the beefy black combat boots and army green jodhpurs at Balenciaga to the machine-like silhouettes overcast charcoals and blacks at Akris, a plethora of this season's collections hint at an underlying gloom, intensity or subtle military influence.
Vibrant young designer, Zac Posen, sent an uncharacteristically dark and somber (but nonetheless chic) collection down the Fall runway. Full, feminine skirts and fitted jackets were shown in industrial camouflage-toned "tech" fabric, and the loden "stealth" dress resembles a sexed-up women's WWII marine uniform. The angular black "jet" dress, long leather gloves and a textured army green day coat all supplemented the sharp, militaristic edge that sliced through much of the collection, but Posen succeeded in maintaining the impeccable, tailored looks for which he is so well known.
The war in Iraq is one of these events that have been abruptly thrust into our lives. To say that it has affected countries, economies, families and individuals across the globe would be a gross understatement. The fashion industry does not exist in a bubble, and thus, it too has been significantly affected by the situation in Iraq. Perhaps the War has sent out some dark energy to which creative souls are especially receptive, or maybe it's because CNN, the Times and every other media outlet obsesses over its every detail, but since Iraq's occupation in 2003, many collections have reflected the international mood set by the War. Fall '07's ready-to-wear was no exception: from the beefy black combat boots and army green jodhpurs at Balenciaga to the machine-like silhouettes overcast charcoals and blacks at Akris, a plethora of this season's collections hint at an underlying gloom, intensity or subtle military influence.
Vibrant young designer, Zac Posen, sent an uncharacteristically dark and somber (but nonetheless chic) collection down the Fall runway. Full, feminine skirts and fitted jackets were shown in industrial camouflage-toned "tech" fabric, and the loden "stealth" dress resembles a sexed-up women's WWII marine uniform. The angular black "jet" dress, long leather gloves and a textured army green day coat all supplemented the sharp, militaristic edge that sliced through much of the collection, but Posen succeeded in maintaining the impeccable, tailored looks for which he is so well known.
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